I decided to use the Foam-it-Green closed cell foam kits because of the high R value and the ability to seal out air and moisture better than any other type of product. It is also easier to insulate an overhead surface. Once the foam is sprayed on it stays where you want it without any of the sagging you’d get with fiberglass batts. Just be sure to cover any surface you don’t want foam on with lots of plastic sheeting. The exposed insulation has a rather hard surface and is less apt to be damaged by objects kept in attic storage spaces.

We are only halfway through the project and can already feel a difference. We….along with friends and neighbors…are amazed at the difference in temperature between the area that has been sprayed and the area that has not. Using a laser thermometer reveals at least a 20 degree difference between the exposed underside of the roof sheathing and the sheathing that has been sprayed. I have opted for using vent baffles stapled under the sheathing for two reasons. The first being possible warranty problems with some roofing material manufacturers for not having a vented area. The second being that the venting system alone really helps to allow the heat radiating off the under side of the roof to escape out the ridge vent….you should have proper soffit-to-ridge vent airflow. The added benefit of this is that the roofing side of the foam product starts off being cooler than if applied directly to the sheathing thereby increasing the efficiency of the foam product.

I have enclosed pictures of before the project was started, after baffles have been stapled and after foam has been applied. There is also a picture of the pine board that will be applied to all surfaces.

This was an unfinished second story storage loft over our garage. When finished, my wife will use it for yoga, meditation and painting studio.

Gary O.
Silver Springs, FL